16. How to Take Nature Photos 1: Macro

These tips come from videos by Micael Widell, Spencer Cox, and Gavin Hoey.'

Micael Widell recommends using a mounted flash, like a Speedlite with your camera, but add a diffusor. Some diffusors fit over the flash, while some can be mounted on the lens itself (preferred by Micael Widell):

           
diffusor on the flash                                   diffusor on the lens

The light from your flash will be too harsh if you don't diffuse it. If you have a cheap budget (or you forget to bring your diffuser), you can use a piece of paper with a hole in it as a diffuser. Gavin Hoey uses a "Mag Sphere" diffusor that sticks over his flash (costs around $130), connected by magnets. He also uses a "Magic Arm" to mount his flash from underneath, so that the flash itself is in front and to the side of the lens, to hit his subject from an angle.

For subjects sitting still, you can use a tripod to limit camera shake, and stay in focus. It's also great for photo stacking, where you combine a series of photos in Photoshop (more on that later). Just remember, a tripod isn't practical for moving targets.

The best mode for macro photography is Manual Mode (for full control). Micael Widell recommends you set your ISO to 200 to reduce noise (although Spencer keeps it on AUTO). Set your shutter speed to the same as your flash sync speed (usually 1/200th of a second). Set your White Balance to 5500 Kelvin. Set your flash to manual mode, at a strength of 1/16th. You don't want your flash too strong or it'll take a lot of time to recharge between photos, slowing you down. Spencer also mentions you don't always need to use a flash. Try taking shots without it, and if it works, great. 

Here are some photos I recently took, one with flash and one without, to show you the difference:

This first one uses a flash, with all the settings recommended here.

The exact same shot, minus the flash, and switching to AUTO Mode.

Gavin Hoey complains about direct sunlight, preferring to shoot in the shade. But he also says your images will be crisper and sharper when you use a flash.

Aperture is a bit tricky to explain, as the ideal settings change depending on the camera you use. With macro photography, you can't simply go to the highest F number because at that point, diffraction will blur your image. Spencer Cox explains ideal apertures for macro 1:1 shooting here:

Full Frame sensors:                                         f/16-22

APS-C size sensors (14.9mm x 22.3mm):      f/10-14

Micro 4/3 sensors:                                           f/8-11

Canon Cameras:                                              f/5-7.1

When you have these settings, take a test photo, and see how it looks. If the photo is too dark, increase the flash to 1/8th or stronger. If it's too bright, decrease your flash to 1/32nd or weaker.

When taking photos with a macro lens you should always focus manually - that's just how they work. Some macro lenses have no autofocus - others do, but it's still recommended to focus manually, it gives you greater control - REMEMBER, you want to focus exactly on the insects' eyes. There's no zoom either. Macro lenses are prime, so the image is sharper. So, the only way to zoom is to step forward or back. Macro lenses also have a very shallow depth of field.

Macro lenses often look like Telephoto, and you might confuse the two. The main difference is Working Distance. A Telephoto lens has a minimum working distance of around 5 feet. It can't focus on anything closer. A Macro lens, on the other hand, usually has a working distance of about 5 inches. So, you can get right up close to your subject for a shot. A farther working distance (a Macro lens of 100mm or greater) is advantageous in that you don't have to get so close to your subjects, and they're less likely to fly away.

Insects

Gavin Hoey has a great video about going on a "Backyard Safari". First, he recommends stepping slowly, looking around, and waiting patiently for something to move and catch your eye. You have to stop and look. Gavin notices that most insects like to be in the sun, which isn't the best light for shooting - it's too harsh and bright. So, he holds up a diffuser to shade his subjects as he shoots (see video), or he uses a flash.

Gavin suggests three levels for mastery of a "Backyard Safari":

1. Level one is where you just look down on a subject and shoot from above. 

2. Level two is when you stoop down and get on the bug's level. 

3. Level 3 is when you try to get eye contact with the insect - to see the bug face-to-face. This is the hardest challenge.

Focus on the eye of the insect. Micael Widell recommends slowly rocking back and forth until you get the insect's eye in focus. Set your focus ring to 2:1 magnification as it works best for most insects. You should also enable focus peaking, choosing the color of your subject - this is a feature on many newer cameras. Take lots of pictures - about 90% of your shots won't be perfect, but that's okay so long as you have enough great shots to choose from.

Camera shake is a big issue with insect photography, especially on a windy day. Turning on lens stabilization isn't enough. Micael Widell recommends holding the leaf steady with your left hand, as you take your shot with the right. Even better, have your left hand resting against the side of the lens while you hold the leaf, branch, etc. Spencer Cox recommends going out on calm days with no wind.

A lot of insects are skittish and will fly away from you. But, some won't. About 20% of insects tend to accept you being near, so long as you're quick. So be patient, and be ready for the opportunity when it comes. Gavin Hoey suggests taking your first shots from farther away and slowly creeping in while you shoot - holding your camera out so that you can't see in the viewfinder. It keeps your body farther away from the subject. He also says that using a big scary flash will make more bugs fly away, but if they don't you get a better photo, so just be slow moving and patient.

Flowers

from B&H Photography

For shooting flowers, a tripod is more practical, again, watch out for windy conditions. If you use a tripod, remember to turn off your lens stabilization. Macro lenses are ideal for shooting flowers, but not required. A 50mm lens will also work (flowers are larger than insects). Like with insects, consider using a diffuser to avoid harsh shadows in the sun (although, personally, I like those shadows).

With flower photos, the background is key. You generally want a very shallow depth of field to blur out the background. You can also put in a piece of foam core (black is a good color) behind the flower to remove a busy background and add some contrast to brighten the colors of your flower. You don't want your background to be the same color as your flower, or it won't stand out. Micael Widell says that most flower photos look boring when the background is uninteresting. You have to make the background beautiful but not so exciting that it competes with the flower - they should work together. Even a blurry background should give some indication of place and setting.

Avoid lighting your flower from the front as it will look flat. Try to light it from an angle, or from behind to emphasize the forms and curves. You can also spritz the flower with a small water bottle for extra detail and interest.

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