4. Lens Filters, Hoods & Other Camera Accessories

Almost all this information comes from lessons by Chris Bray, including the photo examples. 

Lens Filters

NOTE: One annoying feature about lens filters and hoods is you can't always combine them - it depends on the lens you're using, and the brand. Off-brand filters and hoods may screw onto a lens, but won't always allow you to combine with other accessories. So, when you have to choose one or the other, you have to know which will be the most helpful in which situation (or check first, and ask the shop attendant if they can work in combination).

NOTE: Different lenses come in different sizes. So, before you buy a filter, make sure it will fit your size lens.

UV Filters: removes UV light to the sensor in your camera so that it reduces haziness and bluish cast. The funny thing is, most newer digital cameras already have a sensor that reduces UV light––making these filters obsolete. And yet, most photographers will tell you to always use one because?... It protects your camera lens from damage (in case you drop it). So, it’s a good filter to just always keep on your lens. Lenses can be really hard to clean and they have special coatings that easily scratch off, but UV filters are super easy to clean, and they’re very strong and resist damage. And, even if you do break one (I’ve done it) they’re much cheaper to replace than a new lens. A filter might cost $15, while some lenses cost thousands! 

NOTE: you get what you pay for with these, so if you buy a really expensive lens and a really cheap UV filter, it’s silly––you’re going to lose all the clarity you paid for with the lens.

Polarizing Filters: These act like sunglasses for your lens. They make colors more vibrant and reduce reflections in water, so they’re good for landscapes. These are usually variable, so you twist it around to change the intensity of effect. 

A common mistake is for people to put this filter on their camera and forget about it––don’t do that! Put it on only when you want to use it. You need to adjust this every time you take a picture––the darker it gets, the less reflections you will see. And, because it’s darker, your camera will compensate with longer shutter speeds, meaning more camera shake. So take it off when there’s less light. Also, with polarizing filters, you get what you pay for––cheaper ones can take out the sharpness of your lens focus.

ND (Neutral Density) Filters: These reduce the amount of light that enters the lens. It’s great for video, especially outside, and it allows you to prolong your shutter speed for photos - something you need to use in combination with a tripod. If you want to take a longer exposure in sunny daylight conditions (2 seconds or longer) you'll probably need an ND filter to do it. 

There are numbers to represent different levels (or stops) of light reduction. The higher the number, the more light is reduced (3 Stops, 6 Stops, 9 Stops, 15 Stops). You can get a variable ND filter, you twist it around like with a polarizing filter, but the quality is lower. You can also get a graduated ND filter, meaning part of the glass is darker (one half), while the other half is clear:

a Graduated ND filter

Lens Hoods: These help protect your lens from bumps and block light from creating lens flares, and doing other things you might not want in your photo. Lens hoods are great and you should use them a lot. The only time you might take one off is when you’re using your flash, and you don’t want any hood shadow affecting an image:

Another time you might take off a lens hood is to get your lens closer to a window, to shoot what’s beyond it.

Special Camera Parts, Features & Functions

Most newer cameras have these built-in functions:

Diopter: When you look in your viewfinder (for new, DSLR cameras) you should see some words and numbers above and below the picture frame, but they may be out of focus. Set this dial (usually just to the right of your viewfinder) to get this text into better focus. This helps you know when the subject is in focus or not - adjusting it to your particular eyesight.

Light Meter: built into the camera, it reads the image in front of you and determines the brightness of light coming into the camera, and then calculates the proper exposure triangle for optimal exposure. Older cameras don't have light meters, and most studio photographers will use an external one for more accurate results. Cameras with built-in light meters offer different settings, called modes. You can read more about them in this lesson.                                                                 

Built-in Flash: helps you increase the amount of light needed to see a subject, in dark places. It also provides new compositional and aesthetic possibilities.

Red-Eye-Reduction: this is another flash that goes off right before the primary flash, as your camera takes a shot. It shrinks the pupils in the eyes of people in your photos, so they don’t look like demons.

Other Accessories

Tripod: One with a ball and pinion joint is best. Get something light you can carry with you. These are necessary for slower photos, not just for low light and night time, but if you want to do some action shots with motion blur. Depending––a one-second shutter speed can be good for waterfalls, maybe you can hold it steady enough for the still parts? When using a tripod, turn off your lens stabilizer––when the camera’s too steady, it can introduce shake.

Monopod: This helps stabilize your camera when you need to swivel quickly to follow action, and is very popular with sports photographers.

Remote Control: This is to program your camera for longer exposure times, like if you wanted to do a 2 hour star-trail photo, and reduces camera shake.

Remote Flash: can clip to the top of your camera, or hold separately (some with a cord, and some are cordless).

Camera Flash, Light Diffuser: These help limit overexposure when you use a flash, and soften the quality of light from your flash.

A Gel Sheet: this transparent film comes in different colors and can be taped over your lens. It changes the overall color of the image.

White Card: for setting custom white balance on location.